First Time in Iran

What to Wear

Few questions occupy the minds of first-time female visitors to Iran quite like the question of what to wear. Like all females aged nine and older, women travelers will need to wear hejab while in Iran. That means covering hair, arms and legs and wearing clothes that disguise your body shape when in public. Bring something long and loose from home and, if you want to look less like a tourist, shop for a manteau (an overcoat that covers your bottom, at least) once you arrive. Ditto for scarves, which will require constant attention lest you expose too much hair. As for men, the main dress restrictions are that you shouldn’t wear shorts or singlets that show your shoulders.

Sleeping

The choice is limited to fairly uninspiring hotels and basic local lodging houses away from the main tourist circuit and larger cities.

Hotels: Runs the full gamut from budget cheapies to top-end behemoths; the upmarket end of things is limited but improving all the time.
Ecolodges: are local accommodations built in the heart of nature and designed to have the least possible impact on the natural environment in which it is situated. Ecolodges abide by the principles of sustainable development, a concept that has been receiving a lot of attention by major organizations all over the world, including the UN.
Guesthouse: Basic lodging houses or very basic hotels with dorm beds, shared bathrooms, and a predominantly local male clientele.
Camping With few official camping areas, camping is really appropriate in deserts like Shahdad Kaluts and etc.

Bargaining
In general prices in shops are fixed. But virtually all prices in the bazaar are negotiable, particularly for souvenirs and always for carpets. In heavily touristed areas, such as Imam Sq in Esfahan, bargaining is essential. Bargaining tips include not showing too much interest at first when you find something you like. And don’t buy the first one you see. Check out a few alternatives to get an idea of quality and price. Remember that bargaining is not a life and death battle. A good bargain is when both parties are happy and doesn’t require you to screw every last toman out of the vendor. As long as you’re happy, it was a good deal.

Money & Costs:

Tipping
Tipping is not a big deal in Iran. In upmarket restaurants (mainly in Tehran) a 10% gratuity might be
expected – on top of the 10% service charge that’s often built into the bill. But in most other places any money you leave will be a pleasant surprise. It’s normal to offer a small tip to anyone who guides you or opens a building that is normally closed. If your offer is initially refused, persist. There is no culture of baksheesh (alms or tips) in Iran.

Etiquette
Iranians are generally quite forgiving of Westerners for any minor cultural transgressions – they don’t expect you to know all of the rules. Some useful things to remember:

• When invited to dinner take a tin of the local sweets (eg Gaz in Esfahan).
• Never use the thumbs-up sign, which is the equivalent of the middle finger ‘up yours’.
• Men should not offer to shake a woman’s hand unless she offers first.
• Take off your shoes when entering a home or a mosque.

Eating
Iran is an excellent place to eat out (or in, if you’re lucky enough to be invited to a meal in a local family home).
Teahouses: Traditionally where Iranians would go to socialize and eat, with tea, Qalyan (water pipe) and food.
Kebabis: Simple kababis tend to be found around major squares and serve, yes, kababs. Eat where the locals eat.
Take-away  Fast food is popular and begins (and often ends) with bread-roll ‘sandwiches’.
Restaurants Found across the country; most serve ash-e jo (pearly-barley soup) and salad as standard starters